Start with the label
The care label decides. If it says dry clean only, follow it. If the label is missing, test first: dab a hidden seam with a damp white cloth and check whether any colour transfers. Bright prints and deep colours are the most likely to run. Delicate fabrics also mark easily, so handle them with clean, dry hands and avoid rough surfaces.
Washing silk
When the label allows it, wash silk by hand in cool water, no warmer than 30 °C, with a mild detergent made for delicates or silk. Avoid biological detergents and bleach: silk is a protein fibre and they can damage it. Soak for a few minutes, do not scrub or wring, and rinse in cool water. Roll the piece in a towel to remove the excess water.
Washing viscose
Viscose is weaker when wet and can shrink or lose its shape. Wash it gently in cold water, never wring or twist it, and check the label first: many viscose garments are dry clean only.
Drying
Dry silk flat on a towel, or on a padded hanger, away from the sun and from heat. Dry viscose flat, since the weight of the water stretches it on a hanger. Never use a tumble dryer.
Ironing
Iron inside out, on a low setting, while the fabric is still slightly damp, or place a clean cloth between the iron and the fabric. Direct steam can leave water marks on silk. A garment steamer held at a distance is a gentler way to remove creases. Satin and acetate need particularly low heat.
Stains
Act quickly. Blot the stain with a clean cloth, without rubbing, and never use hot water. Perfume, deodorant and perspiration can discolour silk, so let them dry before you dress. For a grease mark, sprinkle cornflour on it, leave it for a few hours and brush it off. Do not use nail polish remover, which damages acetate.
When to use a professional
Use a professional cleaner when the label says dry clean only, and for tailored, lined or pleated pieces, garments with beads or sequins, delicate lace, large or old stains and stains of unknown origin. Tell the cleaner what caused the stain and what you have already tried.